I Can't Wait To...

Well, it has been quite an experience being in Ghana for the last 8 months. Although it was difficult at times, I have learned so much from this experience and I’m quite sad to be leaving although I’m also excited to be going home. I have compiled a list of 12 things I can’t wait to do once I’m back in Canada. There is no particular order to this list.

#1. I can’t wait to drink water straight from the tap with ice cubes. Although it is super convenient to be able to buy water sachets wherever you are in Ghana, it is terrible for the environment and it creates a lot of plastic waste. I am looking forward to drinking water from the tap and not worrying about getting sick from drinking water.

#2. I have really REALLY missed cheese and I can’t wait to buy some cheese and eat it. Usually the best we can do is eat the Laughing Cow cheese if you’re being budget-conscious. Yes, it is possible to get real cheese (and sometimes we do get it when we buy pizza), however it is often extremely expensive. Yogurt and other dairy products are hard to find in Ghana as dairy isn’t part of a typical Ghanaian diet.

#3. I can’t wait to pay for something while using my debit or credit cards. Other than using the cards at the ATM, they really have no use in Ghana as cash is what everyone uses to pay for things. I’m also looking forward to paying for something in cash without worrying about change. Getting change in Ghana is always a challenging experience (we’ve come up with a few reasons for this but who knows why this is), and it is frustrating when they refuse to accept anything but exact change for the item you wish to purchase. 

#4. Going to the grocery store will be great because I know that the items I wish to buy will be on the shelves and I only need to visit one store to buy all the groceries I need. I found it a bit frustrating at first when I would go to the grocery store expecting to purchase certain items and the store wouldn’t have anything on my list even though they had it the week before. Such is the reality of life in Africa and it teaches you to buy in bulk if the store has the item that week.

#5. I really miss taking the train or the bus that runs on a schedule. Public transportation in Accra is frequent however the big city buses are not on a schedule and are not a reliable form of transportation. It will also be nice to use my bus pass instead of having to pay the bus fare. Tro tros are amusing however they really are not the safest method of transportation.

#6. It will be great to always be able to find a bathroom when I need it. Finding a bathroom is challenging in Ghana, especially when traveling. I’ve learned how to use a urinal (what an experience), among other toilet situations. It is really an awful experience when you get the ‘Ghana tummy’ or desperately need a toilet and you can’t find one. Everyone has their own unique bathroom-related story to tell. Bathrooms often are not equipped with toilet paper (even in my building there is no toilet paper), so you learn very quickly to bring some tissue with you.

#7. It will be really nice to wear jeans again. It will also be nice to not get your clothes dirty as soon as you walk out the door as it is so dusty in Accra.

#8. I can’t wait to see my family and my wonderful boyfriend who have all been incredibly supportive throughout this experience. I miss them terribly and it will be great to see them all in two short days. I don’t know how I could have done this without their support.

#9. I’m looking forward to having an apartment again. It is an interesting experience living in a University residence building again however I prefer having some privacy. I also can’t wait to have a kitchen to cook in as I rarely cook for myself here as the kitchen is only equipped with a hot plate. I look forward to having my own bathroom and having a quieter place to live.

#10. As much as I wanted to attempt driving in Ghana to say that I had tried it, I have not attempted to drive. I look forward to being able to drive myself somewhere and not have to worry about taking public transportation. 

#11. I have been pretty sick since February with malaria and I haven’t been able to get as much exercise as I would like. It will be great to visit a doctor and figure out exactly what is wrong with me and receive treatment. It will be great to get healthy and stay healthy.

#12. Finally, I am looking forward to graduating from University! It has been a long four years and it will be nice to move on with my life. I have enjoyed my experience but I’m ready to be an adult. I will look back on this experience with fond memories but it is time to progress to the next step.

30 Days Left

It was odd to wake up this morning and realize that today was March 22nd which means 30 days remain of my field placement in Ghana. Looking back on when I first arrived in Ghana, I didn’t have any idea how much I would learn about myself, life and international development. I was also completely clueless about how to do everything from getting dinner to navigating Accra. There have been some pretty horrible lows and some incredible highs throughout this experience. On a personal level, I’ve learned how to cope in a foreign place without my friends and family (although I’ve made a new family here). I’ve mastered getting around on my own by tro tro and I know where I’m going in Accra now. I’m getting over my shyness and I will bargain for taxis to make sure I’m not getting “Obruni priced” (overcharged). I feel more independent than I ever have before and I know that I can function and establish a life in a foreign country. This gives me a sense of confidence I didn’t know I had.

I have also gained a greater appreciation for the comforts of home. Things like knowing that when I turn on a faucet, water will come out of it (cold and hot water), and that I can find a flushing toilet when I need it are small things I appreciate a lot more. Unreliable power and unreliable or slow internet make life all the more interesting (and at times extremely frustrating when you are trying to get something done). I will point out that even within Ghana, things at Legon are much better than elsewhere in Accra and indeed much of the country. I’ve learned that getting upset about such matters is not good and although sometimes it might be hard, laughing about it is always the best way to deal with it. Education is another thing that I am more appreciative of in Canada. So many kids can’t afford to go to school in Ghana and many of them sell water and other items on the road. Kids in Ghana (generally speaking) are required to buy a school uniform and pay school fees to attend school. It is not uncommon to meet children who have never gone to school which is really heartbreaking, especially when they tell you that their dream is to be a doctor, teacher, nurse etc.

Ghana hasn’t been all good though. ‘Ghana tummy’ as it is affectionately known has plagued me on and off this entire trip and at times it gets really painful. Thankfully my wonderful parents brought me some Pro-biotics and that seems to help. I have also contracted malaria (thankfully only once), and I have fallen in a gutter. These sorts of things are a badge of honour and make you feel like you’ve had the real Ghana experience. I’ve also broken electronics (laptop and cellphone) but was amazed at how easy it was to resolve these issues. Ghana does get really overwhelming sometimes but I try to focus on the good days and forget the not so good days.

As the end grows near, I can now appreciate the beauty of Ghana. It is hardly a secret that I truly can’t stand Accra because it is busy, noisy 24 hours a day, crowded, smelly etc. I feel more justified in my feelings when I travel outside and talk with other Ghanaians who echo my dislike for Accra! Living in Accra does have major perks like having access to a wide range of restaurants and it is really convenient to travel to many parts of Ghana from Accra. As much as I think I would love to live in other cities like Tamale, Cape Coast or Takoradi, I’m content with where I am. I have loved spending time in Tamale, Kumasi, Cape Coast - Elmina, and Takoradi where people are really friendly and kind - especially when you look lost. I really like that people take a moment to greet me when I’m walking around, it is such a small and simple gesture but it can make my day.  Ghana itself is naturally beautiful. The lush and green Volta Region is stunning, as is the savannah-like Northern Region. 

Veronika, me and Lisa at Nzulezu - village on stilts

I reflect on some of the crazy yet hilarious adventures I have had over the last 7 months. Some of the more memorable ones include the trip to Nzulezo where the driver was driving extremely dangerously. On the plus side, I made new friends (Lisa and Veronika) who were wonderful to have around. 

At the top of Mount Afadjato

Another entertaining trip was to Volta Region to visit the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary and climb Mount Afadjato - the highest peak in Ghana. Despite the crazy rainstorm that turned descending the mountain into a muddy water slide, we had a fantastic day and had another story to tell. 

Busia Beach

A more peaceful weekend was Western Region where Sarah and I went to Butre and Busia and got to visit a Fort and hang out on a beautiful beach. In hindsight, this was probably our most simple overnight trip, despite planning it in an hour on Friday morning. 

Kevin and I in Kokrobite

I have been really lucky to have had visitors over Christmas break. Having my boyfriend planning a trip to Ghana while writing exams and then getting on a plane within 36 hours of finishing his exam meant the world to me. What a fantastic Christmas present. I know he really enjoyed his time in Ghana.

With the parents at Mole

Vanesa, my Mom, me and Peter in Aburi

My parents also came for a visit and it was so nice to have my Mom and Dad around since I’ve never gone that long without seeing them before. It felt really strange being the ‘parent’ in that situation because they had no idea where they were going but I did. What a change from all previous family vacations where my parents were firmly in charge of the plans and the money. I was so excited to go to Mole National Park and we got to see elephants up close in their natural habitat which was an incredible moment. 

I’ve met some really cool people along the way as well, probably my most favourite people are Peter and his wife Vanessa who own and operate Peter’s Pizza in Aburi. I have eaten lunch several times at Peter’s and each time is yummier than the last! They are such wonderful people and I love talking with them and learning more about their life experiences and how they ended up in Aburi. I really hope I can visit them once more before I leave.

I hope that this last month doesn’t fly by but I know it will. It’s still rather strange to actually be planning to return home in 30 days and return to my regular life in Canada. It took me a long time to be comfortable and happy in all aspects of my life in Ghana but I’ve finally succeeded in doing so and I’m sad to see this experience come to an end. I've made incredible friends throughout this experience and I am going to miss them all terribly. Part of me wishes I could extend to continue working but I know that this isn’t possible. I must admit, I’m excited about seeing my family and my fellow classmates who I haven’t seen since September. I’m also REALLY excited for some homemade macaroni and cheese and tacos! I’ve promised myself to make more time to write on my blog once I return to Canada because I have lots of stories to tell but due to being busy at work, I haven’t had the time to dedicate to my blog as I would have liked. 

Here’s to hoping Ghana will be kind and there will be no catastrophes for the last month. 

(How hard can it be?)

Tamale Fire Festival

I was fortunate to have been in Northern Region during the first two weeks of December. Nothing struck me as out of the ordinary on December 5th. People were doing their usual things, wearing their usual clothing. Nothing would have prepared me for the spectacle that was awaiting me upon our return to Tamale.

Tamale December 5th

Bugum or the the fire festival takes place in December each year in the Northern Region of Ghana. According to the internet, it is celebrating the arrival of Noah’s Ark after the flood. The festival draws people from many ethnic groups and religions (both Christians and Muslims take part). It is the view of many Muslims that because the Ark landed at night, torches were lit to allow Noah and his people to tell if they had reached land. An opposing view is that a son of a great king was lost during the night so people lit torches to search for the missing prince at night. In short, it is an important night for people in the region, regardless of their faith.

Procession in Tamale

As we were driving back to Tamale in late afternoon, I noticed that in each village we passed, children were running around holding bundles of grass in the air while singing and yelling. I wondered if it was some Ghanaian version of Halloween because some of the children were wearing white face paint that gave them a skeletal appearance. The bundles of grass are prepared during the afternoon as the festival takes place after nightfall. Part of the festival includes offering some of the dinner prepared for that evening to their departed ancestors. Families will pray for prosperity and good health for the coming year.

Procession through the streets of Tamale

The main event of the festival is a procession through the streets once the torches are all lit. People are singing and drumming and dancing along the street. The youtube video I found (below), gives an excellent indication of the festival procession so please watch it. I am assuming this person was fortunate (and brave!) enough to walk through the streets. As we were driving through Tamale I was able to take a few pictures. I know the quality isn’t the greatest but it gives some idea of the festival. 

In Tamale the noise was incredible for a city that goes very quiet after nightfall. People were setting off fire crackers and other items that made huge ‘bang’ sounds. It was really pretty to see some fireworks being lit, despite the fact that they exploded too close to the ground for my comfort! I asked (rather jokingly) if alcohol was involved in getting the crowd riled up for the procession and other activities and I was told it absolutely was. It was really cool to see people of all ages celebrating their festival happily and peacefully. It was an adventure trying to get back to the hotel from the small market so we wouldn’t get stuck in the procession so our driver took back roads to get in front of the procession. Part of me wishes I had been gutsy enough to try and join in however I enjoyed watching the procession pass by my hotel.

The internet also tells me that part of the festival is for people to test their magical power and to pacify the gods. Several news articles about Bugum indicate that people sometimes die when they try to ‘test’ their magical powers by stabbing themselves however I didn’t see any of that going on.

It was amazing to see that many people walking
through the streets

Regardless, I was really fortunate to have been able to experience some of the awesomeness that is the Tamale fire festival.

Western Region: Butre & Busua

Sarah and I decided last minute to organize a trip to Western Region to visit Butre and Busua the Weekend of November 18th. Sarah was eager to try surfing and Busua is one place in Ghana where you can arrange to take surfing lessons at the Black Star Surf Shop. Our trip to Takoradi Friday evening was far from easy because of on-going construction at Mallam Junction which has been causing huge delays for people leaving and entering Accra from this direction. Our hotel in Takoradi was inexpensive but still felt slightly overpriced. 

Fort Batenstein. Butre

Saturday morning we set of for Butre, our first stop of the day. With a bit of effort, we managed to get on a tro tro to Agona where we would take another tro tro to Butre. I assumed that based on the information provided by the travel book, we would join a shared taxi to Butre however we got on the most dilapidated tro tro I’ve ever taken. The engine was visible and I could see ground beneath my feet. Thankfully the road was a winding dirt track so the tro tro never gained enough speed for me to feel unsafe. If you are ever in Western Region with a few hours to kill, Butre is well worth the trip, if nothing else to appreciate the beauty of this small settlement with beautiful hills and a stunning beach as a backdrop. A community-based tourism project was set up here a few years ago to ensure that the community benefits to tourists in the area and it seemed to be working well and was well organized.

View of Butre from Fort Batenstein

We elected to visit the fort located on the top of a hill. Restoration efforts were undertaken from December 2010 and January 2011 with funding from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs however, Fort Batenstein remains in its natural state. Our guide accompanied us to the base of the hill and then left us to climb to the top (backbacks in tow), of the very steep path. I thoroughly enjoyed being able to take pictures at the Fort because it was picturesque and the weather was flawless. We also had the option of taking a tour through the village or taking a canoe trip around the lagoon however we needed to get going to Busia so we left after visiting the Fort.

Sitting on the steps of Fort Batenstein

Fort Batenstein was originally established as a trading post by the Dutch West Indian Company in 1598. The Company built the Fort between 1654 and 1656 after demolishing a lodge built by the Swedish African Company. The Fort was finally abandoned in 1872 has has remained a ruin ever since.

Fort Batenstein

Upper level of Fort Batenstein

Fort Batenstein Courtyard

Stunning lagoon in Butre

Getting to Busia was easy as we joined a shared taxi and got there quickly. With a bit of effort we found the hotel that Sarah had booked. Back home getting a hotel room for $60 is a good deal, this hotel cost a total of 20 cedi or $14. The beach was a wonderful break from the chaos of Accra and Sarah enjoyed her surf lesson. It was obvious that Busua was a hub for ex-pats and volunteers (similar to Kokrobite) and for good reason. The beach was very clean and free of hawkers (always a plus). The food at the surf shop was tasty and reasonably priced. The beach had a great vibe, thanks to the surf shop and the people who work there. Busua was well worth the trip.

Busua Beach

Surfing

Goodbye beach

Sand Winning & Property Damage in Elmina

The beach in Elmina

You don’t often think about sand as being a commodity worth stealing, however sand winning is a growing problem along the beaches of Ghana. Enterprising individuals are collecting sand to sell or to make into cement blocks. The impact of this activity is very pronounced on some of the beaches I have visited in Ghana. Some beaches are worse than others while some, particularly Bojo beach (which is inaccessible without taking a canoe from the coast), are pristine. A quick internet search provided several newspaper stories of reporters investigating situations of sand winning going unstopped by law enforcement and also by local communities who self-regulate many other economic activities like fishing. From my research and from talking to a hotel owner currently dealing with this problem, it seems the responsibility for stopping this activity lies with traditional leaders and also with individual property owners. A case study in Odumasi indicated that this formerly productive area of farm land is barren and can no longer be used for agriculture because much of the top soil has been ‘won’ or removed. The reporter visited the area and witnessed a truck being filled in the presence of a community leader which indicates that the leader was aware of their activities despite his insistence to the contrary. Similarly in James Town in Accra, fishermen went about their daily activities ignoring individuals removing sand from the beach or bringing supplies to the beach to make cement blocks with the sand.

The hotel is taking steps to protect their property
 however it is unlikely to resolve the issue

The restaurant building at the hotel in danger of being
damaged from the erosion

I stayed at a hotel in Elmina over the holidays and the erosion from the sand winning that continues on this beach was extreme. The hotel is no doubt going to lose their restaurant as the foundation is being eroded due to the lack of beach sand protecting it. They were busy constructing some barriers however their efforts are going to be in vain.  I have never before seen a beach with such a significant lack of slope. It was very obvious where the dump trucks had been backed up to collect sand. The hotel said they had been battling with local government officials to take action against the sand winners because of the property damage it was causing and also the environmental costs of destroying the shoreline. Sand winning contributes to coastal erosion. It took three years to get government to take their concerns seriously and even after they had blocked the paths the dump trucks had taken, the trucks had simply gone around the barriers to reach the beach. The hotel is new and is still under construction however the damage to the beach will severely impact their property. They are quite limited in their options to remedy the situation. Short of having armed guards patrolling the beach and running the risk of the sand winners bribing the guards, not much can be done. 

You can see the efforts of the hotel to try to protect their property. Hi Mom!

Illegal ‘entrepreneurs’ is a very common problem in Ghana which I have previously written about in the case of illegal miners. People are willing to take drastic and even deadly measures to keep people off their land. This response is hardly unusual and sadly, government seems to lack the capacity and will to take action against illegal entrepreneurs. On the other hand, it seems grossly unjust to prohibit people from earning an income (albeit illegally), when there are no other jobs available in the area. There seems to be a lack of education about protecting the environment and indeed alternative materials in construction. Poverty plays a major role in encouraging people to engage in illegal activities because there are few alternative employment opportunities. Perhaps if there was increased investment in creating jobs for people they would be less inclined to engage in illegal enterprises.

Welcome to 2012

Having a full month break at the holidays was exactly what I needed to feel refreshed and excited to go back to work. I don’t think anyone would dispute the fact that being a tourist in a country is far easier than trying to set up a life and work. Only once you are immersed in a place you begin to appreciate and understand it. Being in a country for two weeks or even a few months isn’t enough time to really understand what is going on in the particular country. Traveling to tourist areas in the country also means that you are likely interacting with people who are accustomed to hosting tourists.

Traveling with my parents and with my boyfriend made me appreciate how much I have learned about Ghana in such a short period of time and I don’t assume for one second that I know all that there is to know. I was really proud of myself that I was able to navigate without getting lost or needing to ask for directions. I was also really proud of myself for being able to bargain for taxis and get a good price with confidence I didn’t know I had. I had some serious concerns that this experience was not bringing out the best in me, however I know I will be going home a more confident person and that I need to worry less and enjoy the remainder of this experience more.

I am excited to make new friends in the coming weeks as all of my friends on campus have returned home. I wasn’t expecting to make such great friends and they really made this experience a lot of fun. Whether we were celebrating small victories or getting over our problems by eating ice cream in the parking lot, there was never a dull moment. 

I really hope to spend more time at work and also working on my blog for the remainder of my placement. I think my body has had enough of traveling for the time being and I am not opposed to saving some money by staying close to Accra.

I have also compiled a brief list of the things I want to accomplish by the time I leave Ghana. I am quite amazed at how much I have accomplished in only a few months. Hopefully I will continue to grow and learn in the coming months.

The Ghana List:

• Fall asleep on every beach I visit
• Learn a bit of the local language (Twi) (done)
• Take a tro tro by myself (done)
• See a hippo in the wild
• Take a safari through Mole National Park (done)
• See an elephant in the wild (done)
• Ride on a motorcycle (done)
• Ride on a tractor (done)
• Visit a witches camp in the north (done) 
• See one of the historic mosques in the North (done)
• Visit Kejetia market in Kumasi (done)
• Tour at least 10 forts/castles
• See monkeys (done)
• Climb a mountain (done)
• Learn how to negotiate for a taxi (done)
• Do some African dance (done)
• Master cooking one Ghanaian dish
• Make a charitable contribution in some capacity

Peace and Tranquility at Bojo Beach

Sarah and I decided to take a bit of a break from the big trips we have been taking for the last couple weeks and decided to take a day trip to Bojo Beach. This place was not included in our guidebook however everyone who has been there has highly recommended going. Getting there wasn’t too difficult - we followed the same route we take to Kokrobite but simply get off the tro tro at the Bojo Beach road. For once traffic was in our favour and it took about an hour to get there. This little trip also served as a lesson to be cautious about allowing someone to serve as your ‘guide’ and to be cautious about telling people where you are going because people can and do follow you. We were fortunate that it was only a small boy who followed us, and thanks to the taxi driver who brought us to the beach, we were able to stop him from following us. The boy was going to ‘show’ Sarah and I to the Kokrobite tro tro station which is a short walk away from the main station. It was pretty clear he didn’t really know where he was going. Somehow he got on the same car as us. Sarah asked him if he was going to meet friends or family because he told us he was going to the beach. He didn’t seem to sure about what he was doing. When we got off the tro tro and walked to a nearby taxi to ask him to take us to the Beach the boy was there, holding the door open saying we should get in. I said very clearly to him that we were saying goodbye and that he should go on his way. That didn’t seem to do any good. Luckily the cab driver told him to get lost. Turns out the boy took the next taxi to the beach entrance and was begging for money so he could go to the beach. Our taxi driver told him to go home and to stop causing trouble. 

The beach itself is stunningly beautiful. It is essentially a sand bar across a small lagoon. You do have to pay to enter the beach which pays for your passage on the small motorized canoe across the lagoon. Really, they should get around to building a bridge because the boat ride is less than 30 seconds. The beach was so empty with maybe 30 people in total on the beach. There was no hawkers and nobody to disrupt our day. The food at the restaurant was of reasonable value and the pizza was quite tasty. The beach was safe and we were not concerned about having our bags stolen while we were in the water. The beach was spotless with no garbage in sight. The water was wonderfully warm and clean. There was minimal floating plastic garbage in the water, compared to some of the other beaches we have been to. I would highly recommend going to Bojo Beach for anyone who enjoys a beautiful beach. 

I think Bojo will rival Kokrobite once the accommodation is finished because as of right now, the rooms are still being completed. 

More Relaxed Trip to Kumasi

Travel in Ghana is rarely an easy task if you are going by public transport somewhere outside of Accra. Our trip to Kumasi was a perfect example.

Sarah and I never seem to be able to plan our trips in advance. With her being busy with classes and me busy at work and our evenings flying by, we are often planning our trips on Thursday. This week was no exception! Our delayed planning and frustration of phone numbers never working for the hotels we call led us to deciding to leave on Saturday instead of Friday evening.

We arrived at the bus station Saturday morning at 4:30 hoping to get on a bus before 6am. We witnessed the most crazy argument at a bus station as two different groups of people started their own lines at the bus station. Instead of dealing with the issue in a multitude of ways, they chose to yell and scream at each other. Not the greatest start to my day. The trip between Accra and Kumasi is supposed to take four hours but for us, it took seven.

Our first stop was Fort Kumasi which we were able to use our guidebook map to find. We even walked there from the bus drop-off point! Quite impressive.

The Fort is a small red structure that doesn’t look particularly imposing from the outside. The appearance of the Fort doesn’t give much indication to the importance of this structure. The British colonialists established the Fort as a training grounds for the Gold Coast Regiment. Joining the army provided some benefits to the soldiers, including teaching them how to read and write and providing employment. The original signboard has a different spelling of Kumasi than the current spelling. The reason for this is simple; most people were illiterate. When the signboard was outside, it meant new recruits were welcome. 

Original Signboard 

Sarah and I were given an excellent tour of the Fort and our guide was very knowledgable about the history of the Fort and the involvement of Ghanaian troops in both the First and Second World War. Without boring people who have little interest in military history, Gold Coast forces participated in both World Wars. WWII saw forces fighting in West Africa, Burma, and Sri Lanka under the British. A lot of the items kept at the Fort are items seized by the soldiers when they defeated the opponent. There was a lot of Japanese mortar weapons and Spanish swords and even Italian plates. 

The Fort wasn’t a slave trading fort as it was a military base. The Fort has two separate cell blocks that held prisoners who committed crimes. The severity of your crime dictated whether you were placed in the reasonable cells or the incredibly cramped and dark cells. If you had committed a terrible crime like murder, you would be placed in one of two tiny windowless cells with many other people until your death. You had no sunlight, no bed to sleep on, you would be crammed into the cell given one meal a day that you would have to consume in minutes, or else the guards would remove the food. Pretty awful place to be. It was astonishing how many people they were able to cram into these tiny cells. The other cell block was more humane and was for people who had defected or committed lesser crimes. Nana, the woman who led the Ashantis in their fight against the British in 1900 was kept here after her capture before she was transported to Elmina Castle where she was held until her death. This iconic battle saw the Ashantis defeat the British despite having less sophisticated equipment.

Isolation cell - 8 people would have been
kept in this tiny cel

The following day we went to the Manhyia Palace, the former home of the Ashanti King. The Palace itself is a modest colonial style home on beautiful grounds with manicured lawns. The house doesn’t look very regal by today’s standards, but at the time when people were still sleeping in primitive huts, it was quite luxurious. I will be honest, I think the tour at this attraction was far too long and less interesting than the Fort tour. Much of the tour involved the guide trying to explain the incredibly complex family structure of the Ashanti people. I would be lying if I said I fully understood it. What I was able to gather from this discussion was that the inheritance system is matrilineal as opposed to the rest of the country which is patrilineal. If you are a child, your mothers sisters are not your aunts, they are also your ‘mother’. But you can have uncles, but you can’t have cousins. This fact seemed particularly puzzling. The other fact that we argued with the guide was why the King was allowed to have many wives, but the Queen Mother, who maintains a certain degree of power, is only allowed one husband. Well, he didn’t really have a good reason for that! From the pictures and the wax statues, there was no doubt that the Ashanti Kingdom earned its name as the Kingdom of Gold. The King is draped in gold jewelry. I think the Palace is worth a visit to learn more about the Ashanti people however it wasn’t my favourite place we have visited.

Manhyia Palace

Our last stop of the day was the Central Market. I only took a picture from the entrance because I didn’t want to be flashing my camera about in the crowded market. This is the  largest outdoor market in all of West Africa. It has burned down a few times most recently in 2009, but we couldn’t tell of any lingering damage. We were there on a Sunday and I think that was a wise move because it was less busy than it would normally be. I found it really impressive how organized the market was. There is a distinct area for food, cloth, baby supplies, machetes, shoes etc. The price of things was also much lower than it is in Accra, unsurprisingly. It was impressive how much stuff we were able to purchase for so little.

I really enjoyed our trip to Kumasi despite our short stay and transportation issues. The roads in the city are much better than the roads in Accra and we didn’t get hassled nearly as much as we do in Accra. Kumasi had a lot of character to it and the buildings were different than Accra. 

Entrance to the market

Two Month Check-In

I have now been in Ghana for two months. Getting adjusted to a completely different way of life hasn’t been easy at times, and as my close friends can attest, we all had a horrible “I hate Ghana” week last week. I thought I would answer some of the usual questions people from home have asked me about my experience thus far.

What is your housing like?

I like to describe it as St. Paul’s mixed with campsite minus the hot water and tent. I was really reluctant to move into ISH (International Students Hostel), because I was really hoping to live in a compound house and I was 'over' the dorm life. And let’s be honest - residence is noisy at the best of times, I like my privacy and quiet. ISH has really grown on me and I have decided to stay there for the remainder of my stay in Ghana. I really like the convenient location - I walk to work everyday and there are tons of food options for me all within the campus. I have cooked twice in two months as I can’t make myself dinner for as little as I can buy it for. I am still not fully comfortable with cold showers although most days its bearable. Making friends with other foreign students is also great, I eat dinner with friends or, on the bad days, get ice cream and sit in a parking lot and 'discuss'...

What do you eat?

You know what they say, ‘when in Rome..”. I have been eating Ghanian most meals since I arrived. Typically for breakfast I eat plain cereal or I walk to get an egg sandwich (for about a dollar), or sometimes I eat baked beans - yes! I get Heinz beans here! Lunch is generally a snack of plantain chips (way better than potato chips), or roasted groundnuts (peanuts). I eat groundnuts constantly. They are so good when they are freshly roasted and what a great source of protein. Dinner is the big meal of the day, I usually get jollof rice with a bit of salad and spaghetti or fried plantains. If I don’t buy that, I am usually eating fufu with groundnut soup. Eating ‘Western’ food is a treat and it is expensive by comparison. Other ‘treats’ here include fruit juice and sugar cane. Anyone who has tried sugar cane knows how yummy it is! It is better than candy.

It is not safe to drink water from the tap so I am forced to continue buying bags of sachets. A week’s supply of water usually costs me a dollar.

How do you do your laundry?

Bucket style. I could send my clothes to be washed in a machine on campus for a fee but I actually enjoy doing it by hand, and it saves me money. I find it relaxing to wash my clothes. I try to do laundry at least once every three days. Dirty clothes attract ants and because you go through so much clothing because its hot meaning I am doing laundry a lot. I’m pretty good at using the bar of soap to remove stains and then you soak them in a bucket with laundry detergent powder for an hour or two before rinsing. I wash everything from my clothes to towels to bedsheets this way. Not bad.

What about mosquitos?

I’ve been fortunate thus far that I haven’t contracted malaria (my biggest fear in Ghana). I haven’t been as careful as I should have been because I recently put my bed net up. Prior to this, I sprayed a bit of insect repellent around my bed and on my ankles. The bed net is useful because it means I can sleep with my balcony door open as the nights are getting hotter and sticky.

What do you do for fun?

Contrary to what some might think, I am not going clubbing or to the bars. I go to Trivia Night at a local bar where a lot of expats hang out but other than that, I don’t party. The heat makes you more tired than at home so I am usually pretty tired in the evenings. I try to save my money to go on trips during the weekends. I have traveled for the last five weekends so I am very tired and could use a break! There really isn't a dull moment - what a change from having no friends and nothing to do during the first month here. I will miss my friends terribly when they leave soon.

What is the most frustrating thing about Ghana?

Inefficiency. Just simple things like having an organized lineup to purchase bus tickets or anywhere really seems to not matter. Simple tasks like going to the bank or getting your mail can take hours. Getting a tro tro is not usually organized with a line (except in some places), and people will push and fight one another to get on board, especially if it is an infrequent route. Patience is key. The system will not change so the best option is to just accept it and try to work within the existing system.

What is the best part about living in Ghana?

I could be silly and say that it is being able to buy pretty much anything on the road and being able to buy food while driving. While this is incredibly awesome and makes travel more bearable, I would have to say talking to people my age or people I work with about development in Ghana and about their culture and their lives is the best thing about Ghana. I love to learn and I find it all very interesting because some aspects of Ghanian culture is so different from my culture yet in other ways they are similar. It reconfirms that development work is really where my heart is and that I can have a future in this field if I am motivated.

A Waterfall Day

(Sunday October 30th)

The morning after we returned from Kokrobite, we decided to rent a car and a driver and go to Shai Hills Forest Reserve. While I would STRONGLY discourage anyone going here, I would encourage people to instead make the trip to Akaa and Boti waterfalls in the Volta Region. 

Me at Akaa Falls

I love the Volta Region, and really, I don’t need to be asked twice to go there for any reason. The roads are surprisingly pretty good and the driver can make all the difference between a reasonably comfortable journey and a back-breaking, bone shattering trip. Luckily, we had a great driver. 

Steps leading to Akaa Falls
The weather was perfect for taking pictures

Umbrella Rock

Me under the Umbrella Rock

Our first stop was Akaa falls. I couldn’t tell you where it is but I’d say it’s about three hours drive at least from Accra. Unlike our previous trip to Volta which involved scaling Mount Afadjato, reaching the falls was relatively simple. We paid the guide who walked us down the path. I really wish he had told us about the place, he didn’t speak to us once really. I took tons of pictures (as usual), and it was very pretty. There was a lot of water because of all the rain we have had lately. We took more pictures then went to see the Umbrella Rock. The rock was really cool and we were able to climb up under the umbrella part. You used to be able to climb on top of the umbrella but because it is quite dangerous, they don’t let you do that anymore. There was a village on the hillside across the valley and I would totally love to live there!

Boti Falls

Steps to Boti Falls. There was quite a lot of them!

Our next stop was to Boti Falls, a short distance away from Akaa Falls. This time we didn’t have a guide but we had to pay a second fee to get in. There was some dispute about the actual cost of entering but eventually we were on our way down the steps to see the falls. There are two sides of Boti Falls, the female side and the male side. The falls are beautiful despite not being as tall as the Wli Falls. For once we didn’t have rain to ruin our trip. While it wasn’t the trip we had planned on taking, it was still a worthwhile trip.

Boti Falls

Me at Boti Falls