30 Days Left

It was odd to wake up this morning and realize that today was March 22nd which means 30 days remain of my field placement in Ghana. Looking back on when I first arrived in Ghana, I didn’t have any idea how much I would learn about myself, life and international development. I was also completely clueless about how to do everything from getting dinner to navigating Accra. There have been some pretty horrible lows and some incredible highs throughout this experience. On a personal level, I’ve learned how to cope in a foreign place without my friends and family (although I’ve made a new family here). I’ve mastered getting around on my own by tro tro and I know where I’m going in Accra now. I’m getting over my shyness and I will bargain for taxis to make sure I’m not getting “Obruni priced” (overcharged). I feel more independent than I ever have before and I know that I can function and establish a life in a foreign country. This gives me a sense of confidence I didn’t know I had.

I have also gained a greater appreciation for the comforts of home. Things like knowing that when I turn on a faucet, water will come out of it (cold and hot water), and that I can find a flushing toilet when I need it are small things I appreciate a lot more. Unreliable power and unreliable or slow internet make life all the more interesting (and at times extremely frustrating when you are trying to get something done). I will point out that even within Ghana, things at Legon are much better than elsewhere in Accra and indeed much of the country. I’ve learned that getting upset about such matters is not good and although sometimes it might be hard, laughing about it is always the best way to deal with it. Education is another thing that I am more appreciative of in Canada. So many kids can’t afford to go to school in Ghana and many of them sell water and other items on the road. Kids in Ghana (generally speaking) are required to buy a school uniform and pay school fees to attend school. It is not uncommon to meet children who have never gone to school which is really heartbreaking, especially when they tell you that their dream is to be a doctor, teacher, nurse etc.

Ghana hasn’t been all good though. ‘Ghana tummy’ as it is affectionately known has plagued me on and off this entire trip and at times it gets really painful. Thankfully my wonderful parents brought me some Pro-biotics and that seems to help. I have also contracted malaria (thankfully only once), and I have fallen in a gutter. These sorts of things are a badge of honour and make you feel like you’ve had the real Ghana experience. I’ve also broken electronics (laptop and cellphone) but was amazed at how easy it was to resolve these issues. Ghana does get really overwhelming sometimes but I try to focus on the good days and forget the not so good days.

As the end grows near, I can now appreciate the beauty of Ghana. It is hardly a secret that I truly can’t stand Accra because it is busy, noisy 24 hours a day, crowded, smelly etc. I feel more justified in my feelings when I travel outside and talk with other Ghanaians who echo my dislike for Accra! Living in Accra does have major perks like having access to a wide range of restaurants and it is really convenient to travel to many parts of Ghana from Accra. As much as I think I would love to live in other cities like Tamale, Cape Coast or Takoradi, I’m content with where I am. I have loved spending time in Tamale, Kumasi, Cape Coast - Elmina, and Takoradi where people are really friendly and kind - especially when you look lost. I really like that people take a moment to greet me when I’m walking around, it is such a small and simple gesture but it can make my day.  Ghana itself is naturally beautiful. The lush and green Volta Region is stunning, as is the savannah-like Northern Region. 

Veronika, me and Lisa at Nzulezu - village on stilts

I reflect on some of the crazy yet hilarious adventures I have had over the last 7 months. Some of the more memorable ones include the trip to Nzulezo where the driver was driving extremely dangerously. On the plus side, I made new friends (Lisa and Veronika) who were wonderful to have around. 

At the top of Mount Afadjato

Another entertaining trip was to Volta Region to visit the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary and climb Mount Afadjato - the highest peak in Ghana. Despite the crazy rainstorm that turned descending the mountain into a muddy water slide, we had a fantastic day and had another story to tell. 

Busia Beach

A more peaceful weekend was Western Region where Sarah and I went to Butre and Busia and got to visit a Fort and hang out on a beautiful beach. In hindsight, this was probably our most simple overnight trip, despite planning it in an hour on Friday morning. 

Kevin and I in Kokrobite

I have been really lucky to have had visitors over Christmas break. Having my boyfriend planning a trip to Ghana while writing exams and then getting on a plane within 36 hours of finishing his exam meant the world to me. What a fantastic Christmas present. I know he really enjoyed his time in Ghana.

With the parents at Mole

Vanesa, my Mom, me and Peter in Aburi

My parents also came for a visit and it was so nice to have my Mom and Dad around since I’ve never gone that long without seeing them before. It felt really strange being the ‘parent’ in that situation because they had no idea where they were going but I did. What a change from all previous family vacations where my parents were firmly in charge of the plans and the money. I was so excited to go to Mole National Park and we got to see elephants up close in their natural habitat which was an incredible moment. 

I’ve met some really cool people along the way as well, probably my most favourite people are Peter and his wife Vanessa who own and operate Peter’s Pizza in Aburi. I have eaten lunch several times at Peter’s and each time is yummier than the last! They are such wonderful people and I love talking with them and learning more about their life experiences and how they ended up in Aburi. I really hope I can visit them once more before I leave.

I hope that this last month doesn’t fly by but I know it will. It’s still rather strange to actually be planning to return home in 30 days and return to my regular life in Canada. It took me a long time to be comfortable and happy in all aspects of my life in Ghana but I’ve finally succeeded in doing so and I’m sad to see this experience come to an end. I've made incredible friends throughout this experience and I am going to miss them all terribly. Part of me wishes I could extend to continue working but I know that this isn’t possible. I must admit, I’m excited about seeing my family and my fellow classmates who I haven’t seen since September. I’m also REALLY excited for some homemade macaroni and cheese and tacos! I’ve promised myself to make more time to write on my blog once I return to Canada because I have lots of stories to tell but due to being busy at work, I haven’t had the time to dedicate to my blog as I would have liked. 

Here’s to hoping Ghana will be kind and there will be no catastrophes for the last month. 

(How hard can it be?)

Western Region: Butre & Busua

Sarah and I decided last minute to organize a trip to Western Region to visit Butre and Busua the Weekend of November 18th. Sarah was eager to try surfing and Busua is one place in Ghana where you can arrange to take surfing lessons at the Black Star Surf Shop. Our trip to Takoradi Friday evening was far from easy because of on-going construction at Mallam Junction which has been causing huge delays for people leaving and entering Accra from this direction. Our hotel in Takoradi was inexpensive but still felt slightly overpriced. 

Fort Batenstein. Butre

Saturday morning we set of for Butre, our first stop of the day. With a bit of effort, we managed to get on a tro tro to Agona where we would take another tro tro to Butre. I assumed that based on the information provided by the travel book, we would join a shared taxi to Butre however we got on the most dilapidated tro tro I’ve ever taken. The engine was visible and I could see ground beneath my feet. Thankfully the road was a winding dirt track so the tro tro never gained enough speed for me to feel unsafe. If you are ever in Western Region with a few hours to kill, Butre is well worth the trip, if nothing else to appreciate the beauty of this small settlement with beautiful hills and a stunning beach as a backdrop. A community-based tourism project was set up here a few years ago to ensure that the community benefits to tourists in the area and it seemed to be working well and was well organized.

View of Butre from Fort Batenstein

We elected to visit the fort located on the top of a hill. Restoration efforts were undertaken from December 2010 and January 2011 with funding from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs however, Fort Batenstein remains in its natural state. Our guide accompanied us to the base of the hill and then left us to climb to the top (backbacks in tow), of the very steep path. I thoroughly enjoyed being able to take pictures at the Fort because it was picturesque and the weather was flawless. We also had the option of taking a tour through the village or taking a canoe trip around the lagoon however we needed to get going to Busia so we left after visiting the Fort.

Sitting on the steps of Fort Batenstein

Fort Batenstein was originally established as a trading post by the Dutch West Indian Company in 1598. The Company built the Fort between 1654 and 1656 after demolishing a lodge built by the Swedish African Company. The Fort was finally abandoned in 1872 has has remained a ruin ever since.

Fort Batenstein

Upper level of Fort Batenstein

Fort Batenstein Courtyard

Stunning lagoon in Butre

Getting to Busia was easy as we joined a shared taxi and got there quickly. With a bit of effort we found the hotel that Sarah had booked. Back home getting a hotel room for $60 is a good deal, this hotel cost a total of 20 cedi or $14. The beach was a wonderful break from the chaos of Accra and Sarah enjoyed her surf lesson. It was obvious that Busua was a hub for ex-pats and volunteers (similar to Kokrobite) and for good reason. The beach was very clean and free of hawkers (always a plus). The food at the surf shop was tasty and reasonably priced. The beach had a great vibe, thanks to the surf shop and the people who work there. Busua was well worth the trip.

Busua Beach

Surfing

Goodbye beach

Sand Winning & Property Damage in Elmina

The beach in Elmina

You don’t often think about sand as being a commodity worth stealing, however sand winning is a growing problem along the beaches of Ghana. Enterprising individuals are collecting sand to sell or to make into cement blocks. The impact of this activity is very pronounced on some of the beaches I have visited in Ghana. Some beaches are worse than others while some, particularly Bojo beach (which is inaccessible without taking a canoe from the coast), are pristine. A quick internet search provided several newspaper stories of reporters investigating situations of sand winning going unstopped by law enforcement and also by local communities who self-regulate many other economic activities like fishing. From my research and from talking to a hotel owner currently dealing with this problem, it seems the responsibility for stopping this activity lies with traditional leaders and also with individual property owners. A case study in Odumasi indicated that this formerly productive area of farm land is barren and can no longer be used for agriculture because much of the top soil has been ‘won’ or removed. The reporter visited the area and witnessed a truck being filled in the presence of a community leader which indicates that the leader was aware of their activities despite his insistence to the contrary. Similarly in James Town in Accra, fishermen went about their daily activities ignoring individuals removing sand from the beach or bringing supplies to the beach to make cement blocks with the sand.

The hotel is taking steps to protect their property
 however it is unlikely to resolve the issue

The restaurant building at the hotel in danger of being
damaged from the erosion

I stayed at a hotel in Elmina over the holidays and the erosion from the sand winning that continues on this beach was extreme. The hotel is no doubt going to lose their restaurant as the foundation is being eroded due to the lack of beach sand protecting it. They were busy constructing some barriers however their efforts are going to be in vain.  I have never before seen a beach with such a significant lack of slope. It was very obvious where the dump trucks had been backed up to collect sand. The hotel said they had been battling with local government officials to take action against the sand winners because of the property damage it was causing and also the environmental costs of destroying the shoreline. Sand winning contributes to coastal erosion. It took three years to get government to take their concerns seriously and even after they had blocked the paths the dump trucks had taken, the trucks had simply gone around the barriers to reach the beach. The hotel is new and is still under construction however the damage to the beach will severely impact their property. They are quite limited in their options to remedy the situation. Short of having armed guards patrolling the beach and running the risk of the sand winners bribing the guards, not much can be done. 

You can see the efforts of the hotel to try to protect their property. Hi Mom!

Illegal ‘entrepreneurs’ is a very common problem in Ghana which I have previously written about in the case of illegal miners. People are willing to take drastic and even deadly measures to keep people off their land. This response is hardly unusual and sadly, government seems to lack the capacity and will to take action against illegal entrepreneurs. On the other hand, it seems grossly unjust to prohibit people from earning an income (albeit illegally), when there are no other jobs available in the area. There seems to be a lack of education about protecting the environment and indeed alternative materials in construction. Poverty plays a major role in encouraging people to engage in illegal activities because there are few alternative employment opportunities. Perhaps if there was increased investment in creating jobs for people they would be less inclined to engage in illegal enterprises.

Peace and Tranquility at Bojo Beach

Sarah and I decided to take a bit of a break from the big trips we have been taking for the last couple weeks and decided to take a day trip to Bojo Beach. This place was not included in our guidebook however everyone who has been there has highly recommended going. Getting there wasn’t too difficult - we followed the same route we take to Kokrobite but simply get off the tro tro at the Bojo Beach road. For once traffic was in our favour and it took about an hour to get there. This little trip also served as a lesson to be cautious about allowing someone to serve as your ‘guide’ and to be cautious about telling people where you are going because people can and do follow you. We were fortunate that it was only a small boy who followed us, and thanks to the taxi driver who brought us to the beach, we were able to stop him from following us. The boy was going to ‘show’ Sarah and I to the Kokrobite tro tro station which is a short walk away from the main station. It was pretty clear he didn’t really know where he was going. Somehow he got on the same car as us. Sarah asked him if he was going to meet friends or family because he told us he was going to the beach. He didn’t seem to sure about what he was doing. When we got off the tro tro and walked to a nearby taxi to ask him to take us to the Beach the boy was there, holding the door open saying we should get in. I said very clearly to him that we were saying goodbye and that he should go on his way. That didn’t seem to do any good. Luckily the cab driver told him to get lost. Turns out the boy took the next taxi to the beach entrance and was begging for money so he could go to the beach. Our taxi driver told him to go home and to stop causing trouble. 

The beach itself is stunningly beautiful. It is essentially a sand bar across a small lagoon. You do have to pay to enter the beach which pays for your passage on the small motorized canoe across the lagoon. Really, they should get around to building a bridge because the boat ride is less than 30 seconds. The beach was so empty with maybe 30 people in total on the beach. There was no hawkers and nobody to disrupt our day. The food at the restaurant was of reasonable value and the pizza was quite tasty. The beach was safe and we were not concerned about having our bags stolen while we were in the water. The beach was spotless with no garbage in sight. The water was wonderfully warm and clean. There was minimal floating plastic garbage in the water, compared to some of the other beaches we have been to. I would highly recommend going to Bojo Beach for anyone who enjoys a beautiful beach. 

I think Bojo will rival Kokrobite once the accommodation is finished because as of right now, the rooms are still being completed. 

A Day At Kokrobite

This weekend (October 29), my friend Sarah and I were ambitious. She invited me to go to Kokrobite as one of the other Canadians in our building was celebrating her birthday on Saturday. Everyone who has gone to Kokrobite seems to love it so I thought a day at the beach was what I needed. We left for Kaneshie Station around 5pm on a Friday. We knew traffic in Accra is bad at the best of times and I anticipated that the journey would take longer seeing as this was the busiest time of the week to travel. Kaneshie struck me as being straight out of an old market neighborhood in India. All of the buildings were old and covered in a thick layer of dust and dirt. As we approached Kaneshie, the taxi driver told us to put up the windows as “they boys here are criminals”. Theft is common in these areas and this wasn’t unexpected. This was another place (similar to Circle), where the best precaution is to keep all valuables in your bag and to wear your bag on your front. As silly as this sounds, you see locals doing it as well which tells you its probably a good idea. A nice man told us he was going to the Kokrobite tro tro station and we followed him through a sketchy poorly-lit road. The line up was long despite tro tros arriving frequently. 

After some messing around we ended up jumping on one of the big Metro buses. There were no seats but we decided we could stand for the 25km journey. Wrong. The trip took almost 4 hours (I wish I was exaggerating), and after a while your legs start to hurt. Knowing the likelihood we wouldn’t arrive in time to get dinner, I was glad I brought snacks and that we could buy food while on the bus (a huge bonus of Ghana). The road leading to Kokrobite was quite steep and very bumpy but eventually we made it to Big Milly’s Backyard. I was so exhausted from the week that I elected to go to bed early so I would be rested enough to enjoy the beach.

Kokrobite Beach

The beach was perfect and the water was warm. We had a great breakfast, bought some things from vendors at the beach and played in the water. Kokrobite beach is very different from Labadi Beach in that you go to the vendors, they don’t come and hassle you every 5 minutes. Dresses and scarves are huge there and I got a cute little African sundress for 7cedi. The usual tourist trinkets and beads are also available.  We had a wonderful lunch at Kokrobite Garden in an outdoor dining area. The pizza was truly delicious and I think it was a close tie between that pizza and Peter’s Pizza in Aburi. The service was great and the food was amazing. Well worth the money!

Some of the fishing boats on the beach

After our lunch, the tide was coming in so the waves were bigger and stronger. You can’t really go out far enough into the ocean to swim because even when you are knee deep in the water, the undertow is quite strong. We continued to enjoy the beach before our dinner. One wave caught me by surprise and I was swept under and almost lost my hat and sunglasses. 

Walking along the beach at sunset

In summary, the weekend was wonderful and Big Milly’s Backyard was a really nice place to stay. We didn’t stay for the Saturday night reggae but I still had a blast. The food was delicious and well worth the money. Kokrobite is more expensive than I was anticipating but you are paying to be right on the beach. The low cost of transportation and proximity to Accra made it well-worth the trip. For what you get at Kokrobite, the price is reasonable.