Showing posts with label Ghana coast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ghana coast. Show all posts

Monday, April 2, 2012

A Weather Update


Volta Region vegetation

The North during dry season. Notice how grey the
sky is
When you think about weather in Africa, two things come to mind. The first is that it is extremely hot and the second is heavy rains. Ghana is located close to the Equator and thus there isn’t the dramatic differences in temperatures that are experienced in Canada which is much further from the Equator. Depending on whether you are in the North or the South of Ghana, the seasons are different. The North has only two season with the dry season lasting from November to April and the wet season from May to October. The South experiences four seasons with the dry seasons lasting from July to August and from December to April. The wet seasons are from May to June and September to November. So currently we are nearing the end of the dry season known as harmattan. The dry season does provide some relief from the humidity of the wet season however the dust has become unbearable at times as the harmattan has become more intense. The rains have started again despite it being the beginning of April and it has brought some welcome relief from the heat. Western Region in particular seems to get rain fairly frequently as it rained briefly on the drive to the project site a few weeks ago and it rained as I returned from a trip there last weekend. 

The vegetation is very different than the
tropical South
The South and North also differ dramatically in climate. Tamale can often reach up to 37° during the dry season while Accra is usually around 31°-33° (a ‘cool’ day in Accra is around 28°). The North is very dry compared to the moist tropical heat of Accra. I found the heat less oppressive in Tamale despite the actual temperature being higher because it wasn’t so moist. I did notice that my skin was cracking from the lack of moisture in the air. The vegetation is different too. The lush, green forests of the South are replaced with savannah in the North.

Limited visibility in Cape Coast (Fort Victoria)
I have been really suffering from asthma in the last few months. I am coughing a lot more and getting short of breath. This is not completely related to the weather because the fumes from cars on the road are horrible and I’m breathing those in on my walk to and from the office everyday. I’ve noticed my throat is dry a lot and my skin gets quite dry and itchy. Trying to prevent dust from covering everything in my room is a losing battle also. I’m diligent about cleaning the fan in my room to reduce the dust being blown about.

Normally you would be able to see this Church
from Fort Victoria
The harmattan was fairly mild this year from what I have been told. There was only a week where the dust clouds were so thick that you couldn’t see things at a short distance. It was really unfortunate that I visited both Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle during the dry season because under normal conditions, the buildings are visible from one another. As you can see from the pictures, the sky is really grey and the visibility is limited. I wish I had taken a picture of the dust clouds when it was really bad because it was remarkable to see. It is similar to fog in Canada except that it is dust. 
View of Cape Coast from Elmina Castle. You should
be able to see Cape Coast Castle from here but
because of the harmattan you can't
Now that the rains have started again, it is a welcome relief from the dry season. The power should be more consistent as there is more water flowing through the hydroelectric dams. The sky is more blue than it was during the dry season. Predicting the weather in Ghana is fairly easy (most days are the same), yet predicting rain is quite difficult. The days where the clouds look like it will rain never actually rain. 







Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Western Region: Butre & Busua



Sarah and I decided last minute to organize a trip to Western Region to visit Butre and Busua the Weekend of November 18th. Sarah was eager to try surfing and Busua is one place in Ghana where you can arrange to take surfing lessons at the Black Star Surf Shop. Our trip to Takoradi Friday evening was far from easy because of on-going construction at Mallam Junction which has been causing huge delays for people leaving and entering Accra from this direction. Our hotel in Takoradi was inexpensive but still felt slightly overpriced. 
Fort Batenstein. Butre
Saturday morning we set of for Butre, our first stop of the day. With a bit of effort, we managed to get on a tro tro to Agona where we would take another tro tro to Butre. I assumed that based on the information provided by the travel book, we would join a shared taxi to Butre however we got on the most dilapidated tro tro I’ve ever taken. The engine was visible and I could see ground beneath my feet. Thankfully the road was a winding dirt track so the tro tro never gained enough speed for me to feel unsafe. If you are ever in Western Region with a few hours to kill, Butre is well worth the trip, if nothing else to appreciate the beauty of this small settlement with beautiful hills and a stunning beach as a backdrop. A community-based tourism project was set up here a few years ago to ensure that the community benefits to tourists in the area and it seemed to be working well and was well organized.

View of Butre from Fort Batenstein
We elected to visit the fort located on the top of a hill. Restoration efforts were undertaken from December 2010 and January 2011 with funding from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs however, Fort Batenstein remains in its natural state. Our guide accompanied us to the base of the hill and then left us to climb to the top (backbacks in tow), of the very steep path. I thoroughly enjoyed being able to take pictures at the Fort because it was picturesque and the weather was flawless. We also had the option of taking a tour through the village or taking a canoe trip around the lagoon however we needed to get going to Busia so we left after visiting the Fort.
Sitting on the steps of Fort Batenstein
Fort Batenstein was originally established as a trading post by the Dutch West Indian Company in 1598. The Company built the Fort between 1654 and 1656 after demolishing a lodge built by the Swedish African Company. The Fort was finally abandoned in 1872 has has remained a ruin ever since.
Fort Batenstein

Upper level of Fort Batenstein

Fort Batenstein Courtyard





Stunning lagoon in Butre



Getting to Busia was easy as we joined a shared taxi and got there quickly. With a bit of effort we found the hotel that Sarah had booked. Back home getting a hotel room for $60 is a good deal, this hotel cost a total of 20 cedi or $14. The beach was a wonderful break from the chaos of Accra and Sarah enjoyed her surf lesson. It was obvious that Busua was a hub for ex-pats and volunteers (similar to Kokrobite) and for good reason. The beach was very clean and free of hawkers (always a plus). The food at the surf shop was tasty and reasonably priced. The beach had a great vibe, thanks to the surf shop and the people who work there. Busua was well worth the trip.
Busua Beach

Surfing

Goodbye beach