30 Days Left

It was odd to wake up this morning and realize that today was March 22nd which means 30 days remain of my field placement in Ghana. Looking back on when I first arrived in Ghana, I didn’t have any idea how much I would learn about myself, life and international development. I was also completely clueless about how to do everything from getting dinner to navigating Accra. There have been some pretty horrible lows and some incredible highs throughout this experience. On a personal level, I’ve learned how to cope in a foreign place without my friends and family (although I’ve made a new family here). I’ve mastered getting around on my own by tro tro and I know where I’m going in Accra now. I’m getting over my shyness and I will bargain for taxis to make sure I’m not getting “Obruni priced” (overcharged). I feel more independent than I ever have before and I know that I can function and establish a life in a foreign country. This gives me a sense of confidence I didn’t know I had.

I have also gained a greater appreciation for the comforts of home. Things like knowing that when I turn on a faucet, water will come out of it (cold and hot water), and that I can find a flushing toilet when I need it are small things I appreciate a lot more. Unreliable power and unreliable or slow internet make life all the more interesting (and at times extremely frustrating when you are trying to get something done). I will point out that even within Ghana, things at Legon are much better than elsewhere in Accra and indeed much of the country. I’ve learned that getting upset about such matters is not good and although sometimes it might be hard, laughing about it is always the best way to deal with it. Education is another thing that I am more appreciative of in Canada. So many kids can’t afford to go to school in Ghana and many of them sell water and other items on the road. Kids in Ghana (generally speaking) are required to buy a school uniform and pay school fees to attend school. It is not uncommon to meet children who have never gone to school which is really heartbreaking, especially when they tell you that their dream is to be a doctor, teacher, nurse etc.

Ghana hasn’t been all good though. ‘Ghana tummy’ as it is affectionately known has plagued me on and off this entire trip and at times it gets really painful. Thankfully my wonderful parents brought me some Pro-biotics and that seems to help. I have also contracted malaria (thankfully only once), and I have fallen in a gutter. These sorts of things are a badge of honour and make you feel like you’ve had the real Ghana experience. I’ve also broken electronics (laptop and cellphone) but was amazed at how easy it was to resolve these issues. Ghana does get really overwhelming sometimes but I try to focus on the good days and forget the not so good days.

As the end grows near, I can now appreciate the beauty of Ghana. It is hardly a secret that I truly can’t stand Accra because it is busy, noisy 24 hours a day, crowded, smelly etc. I feel more justified in my feelings when I travel outside and talk with other Ghanaians who echo my dislike for Accra! Living in Accra does have major perks like having access to a wide range of restaurants and it is really convenient to travel to many parts of Ghana from Accra. As much as I think I would love to live in other cities like Tamale, Cape Coast or Takoradi, I’m content with where I am. I have loved spending time in Tamale, Kumasi, Cape Coast - Elmina, and Takoradi where people are really friendly and kind - especially when you look lost. I really like that people take a moment to greet me when I’m walking around, it is such a small and simple gesture but it can make my day.  Ghana itself is naturally beautiful. The lush and green Volta Region is stunning, as is the savannah-like Northern Region. 

Veronika, me and Lisa at Nzulezu - village on stilts

I reflect on some of the crazy yet hilarious adventures I have had over the last 7 months. Some of the more memorable ones include the trip to Nzulezo where the driver was driving extremely dangerously. On the plus side, I made new friends (Lisa and Veronika) who were wonderful to have around. 

At the top of Mount Afadjato

Another entertaining trip was to Volta Region to visit the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary and climb Mount Afadjato - the highest peak in Ghana. Despite the crazy rainstorm that turned descending the mountain into a muddy water slide, we had a fantastic day and had another story to tell. 

Busia Beach

A more peaceful weekend was Western Region where Sarah and I went to Butre and Busia and got to visit a Fort and hang out on a beautiful beach. In hindsight, this was probably our most simple overnight trip, despite planning it in an hour on Friday morning. 

Kevin and I in Kokrobite

I have been really lucky to have had visitors over Christmas break. Having my boyfriend planning a trip to Ghana while writing exams and then getting on a plane within 36 hours of finishing his exam meant the world to me. What a fantastic Christmas present. I know he really enjoyed his time in Ghana.

With the parents at Mole

Vanesa, my Mom, me and Peter in Aburi

My parents also came for a visit and it was so nice to have my Mom and Dad around since I’ve never gone that long without seeing them before. It felt really strange being the ‘parent’ in that situation because they had no idea where they were going but I did. What a change from all previous family vacations where my parents were firmly in charge of the plans and the money. I was so excited to go to Mole National Park and we got to see elephants up close in their natural habitat which was an incredible moment. 

I’ve met some really cool people along the way as well, probably my most favourite people are Peter and his wife Vanessa who own and operate Peter’s Pizza in Aburi. I have eaten lunch several times at Peter’s and each time is yummier than the last! They are such wonderful people and I love talking with them and learning more about their life experiences and how they ended up in Aburi. I really hope I can visit them once more before I leave.

I hope that this last month doesn’t fly by but I know it will. It’s still rather strange to actually be planning to return home in 30 days and return to my regular life in Canada. It took me a long time to be comfortable and happy in all aspects of my life in Ghana but I’ve finally succeeded in doing so and I’m sad to see this experience come to an end. I've made incredible friends throughout this experience and I am going to miss them all terribly. Part of me wishes I could extend to continue working but I know that this isn’t possible. I must admit, I’m excited about seeing my family and my fellow classmates who I haven’t seen since September. I’m also REALLY excited for some homemade macaroni and cheese and tacos! I’ve promised myself to make more time to write on my blog once I return to Canada because I have lots of stories to tell but due to being busy at work, I haven’t had the time to dedicate to my blog as I would have liked. 

Here’s to hoping Ghana will be kind and there will be no catastrophes for the last month. 

(How hard can it be?)

June Update About Ghana

I finally had my tonsils removed June 14th and despite the pain and the frustratingly slow recovery, not helped by a bad reaction to the pain medication, I have had ample time to think about the upcoming placement. The e-ticket has been purchased for my flight to Ghana in September (another reality check, if I didn't already believe that I was going, I sure am now!), and I have started to read some literature about travel in Ghana.
Information is power and in this case, the more I read and get acquainted with Ghana the more confident I am about going. In the last month or so I have run into many people who have either been to Ghana themselves either to volunteer or to travel or who know someone who went and who thoroughly enjoyed the experience. I find it encouraging that I have yet to meet someone who didn't enjoy Ghana.
The first travel book I purchased is a general guide to travelling in Africa and contained a lot of very useful information from what to pack to how to deal with potentially dangerous situations. While I am still nervous about travelling internationally by myself as I have never being overseas without my parents, I know I will manage and I am excited to gain a greater sense of independence and confidence. I think back to all of the amusing experiences my Mom had when we moved to England when I was little as we were all getting used to life in a new country. Simple things like using a telephone of buying groceries were a big challenge and a big success once they were achieved. I am sure I will have my own funny stories upon arrival back in Canada.
Instead of worrying about how I am going to miss my friends and family while I am away, I am trying to focus on the positive and start planning my Christmas trip. The book was useful because it described some of the main attractions in Ghana and things to see.
Cape Coast Castle
Cape Coast is the first destination I was really excited to see. Cape Coast Castle is a restored slave base originally build by the Swedes as a port for the transportation of timber and minerals and was eventually transformed by the British to be the main shipping points for African slaves for over 200 years. The Cape Coast Castle has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has been restored to give visitors a glimpse of what the experience was like for African slaves before being shipped to America. The book estimates that between 2000 and 10,000 slaves were shipped from Cape Coast and other ports in what was once the Gold Coast. The Door of No Return and the dungeons are some of the important aspects of the site. As someone who loves history and who doesn't have a significant knowledge about the slave trade, I am excited to visit this site and other similar sites along the Ghanian coast.
Mole National Park & Kakum National Park
If you are going to Africa for any length of time, going on safari is kind of a must. Mole National Park is located North-West in Ghana and, according to my book, is the best safari in Ghana. Mole is home to elephants, hippos, and many other species of wildlife. Kakum National Park is inland from Cape Coast in South-Western Ghana and is home to elephants, leopards, antelopes, monkeys, and many other animals. Kakum National Park has a 300m canopy walk where visitors can enjoy the lush environment. I am most excited about taking a safari trip to be able to see these exotic animals in their natural habitat. I think it is a once in a lifetime opportunity that I am not going to pass up!
Coffin Industry - Accra
This is an intriguing aspect of the Ga culture in Accra. The book described how the Ga people lay the deceased in extraordinary coffins, unlike the relatively plain coffins which are customary in North America. Coffins can come in all sorts of shapes and bright colours including fish, airplanes, and mobile phones. This unique aspect of their culture has spurred on a new industry making small replicas of these elaborate coffins for tourists. This would be something I would be interested in and is one of the many unique aspects of Ga culture.
Visiting Old Accra is another adventure I am excited to make. While it is always interesting to see the new parts of a city, visiting the older and historic parts is far more fascinating. Accra was a small fishing town only a few generations ago, before the capital was moved there from Cape Coast. Being able to see the old streets and houses would be quite interesting to fully appreciate the capital of Ghana.

All in all, I am getting excited about going in September and I am no longer as fearful about going as I once was. I am interested in adding other attractions to my list if anyone has any further suggestions for my weekend travels next year.