I Can't Wait To...

Well, it has been quite an experience being in Ghana for the last 8 months. Although it was difficult at times, I have learned so much from this experience and I’m quite sad to be leaving although I’m also excited to be going home. I have compiled a list of 12 things I can’t wait to do once I’m back in Canada. There is no particular order to this list.

#1. I can’t wait to drink water straight from the tap with ice cubes. Although it is super convenient to be able to buy water sachets wherever you are in Ghana, it is terrible for the environment and it creates a lot of plastic waste. I am looking forward to drinking water from the tap and not worrying about getting sick from drinking water.

#2. I have really REALLY missed cheese and I can’t wait to buy some cheese and eat it. Usually the best we can do is eat the Laughing Cow cheese if you’re being budget-conscious. Yes, it is possible to get real cheese (and sometimes we do get it when we buy pizza), however it is often extremely expensive. Yogurt and other dairy products are hard to find in Ghana as dairy isn’t part of a typical Ghanaian diet.

#3. I can’t wait to pay for something while using my debit or credit cards. Other than using the cards at the ATM, they really have no use in Ghana as cash is what everyone uses to pay for things. I’m also looking forward to paying for something in cash without worrying about change. Getting change in Ghana is always a challenging experience (we’ve come up with a few reasons for this but who knows why this is), and it is frustrating when they refuse to accept anything but exact change for the item you wish to purchase. 

#4. Going to the grocery store will be great because I know that the items I wish to buy will be on the shelves and I only need to visit one store to buy all the groceries I need. I found it a bit frustrating at first when I would go to the grocery store expecting to purchase certain items and the store wouldn’t have anything on my list even though they had it the week before. Such is the reality of life in Africa and it teaches you to buy in bulk if the store has the item that week.

#5. I really miss taking the train or the bus that runs on a schedule. Public transportation in Accra is frequent however the big city buses are not on a schedule and are not a reliable form of transportation. It will also be nice to use my bus pass instead of having to pay the bus fare. Tro tros are amusing however they really are not the safest method of transportation.

#6. It will be great to always be able to find a bathroom when I need it. Finding a bathroom is challenging in Ghana, especially when traveling. I’ve learned how to use a urinal (what an experience), among other toilet situations. It is really an awful experience when you get the ‘Ghana tummy’ or desperately need a toilet and you can’t find one. Everyone has their own unique bathroom-related story to tell. Bathrooms often are not equipped with toilet paper (even in my building there is no toilet paper), so you learn very quickly to bring some tissue with you.

#7. It will be really nice to wear jeans again. It will also be nice to not get your clothes dirty as soon as you walk out the door as it is so dusty in Accra.

#8. I can’t wait to see my family and my wonderful boyfriend who have all been incredibly supportive throughout this experience. I miss them terribly and it will be great to see them all in two short days. I don’t know how I could have done this without their support.

#9. I’m looking forward to having an apartment again. It is an interesting experience living in a University residence building again however I prefer having some privacy. I also can’t wait to have a kitchen to cook in as I rarely cook for myself here as the kitchen is only equipped with a hot plate. I look forward to having my own bathroom and having a quieter place to live.

#10. As much as I wanted to attempt driving in Ghana to say that I had tried it, I have not attempted to drive. I look forward to being able to drive myself somewhere and not have to worry about taking public transportation. 

#11. I have been pretty sick since February with malaria and I haven’t been able to get as much exercise as I would like. It will be great to visit a doctor and figure out exactly what is wrong with me and receive treatment. It will be great to get healthy and stay healthy.

#12. Finally, I am looking forward to graduating from University! It has been a long four years and it will be nice to move on with my life. I have enjoyed my experience but I’m ready to be an adult. I will look back on this experience with fond memories but it is time to progress to the next step.

A Weather Update

Volta Region vegetation

The North during dry season. Notice how grey the
sky is

When you think about weather in Africa, two things come to mind. The first is that it is extremely hot and the second is heavy rains. Ghana is located close to the Equator and thus there isn’t the dramatic differences in temperatures that are experienced in Canada which is much further from the Equator. Depending on whether you are in the North or the South of Ghana, the seasons are different. The North has only two season with the dry season lasting from November to April and the wet season from May to October. The South experiences four seasons with the dry seasons lasting from July to August and from December to April. The wet seasons are from May to June and September to November. So currently we are nearing the end of the dry season known as harmattan. The dry season does provide some relief from the humidity of the wet season however the dust has become unbearable at times as the harmattan has become more intense. The rains have started again despite it being the beginning of April and it has brought some welcome relief from the heat. Western Region in particular seems to get rain fairly frequently as it rained briefly on the drive to the project site a few weeks ago and it rained as I returned from a trip there last weekend. 

The vegetation is very different than the
tropical South

The South and North also differ dramatically in climate. Tamale can often reach up to 37° during the dry season while Accra is usually around 31°-33° (a ‘cool’ day in Accra is around 28°). The North is very dry compared to the moist tropical heat of Accra. I found the heat less oppressive in Tamale despite the actual temperature being higher because it wasn’t so moist. I did notice that my skin was cracking from the lack of moisture in the air. The vegetation is different too. The lush, green forests of the South are replaced with savannah in the North.

Limited visibility in Cape Coast (Fort Victoria)

I have been really suffering from asthma in the last few months. I am coughing a lot more and getting short of breath. This is not completely related to the weather because the fumes from cars on the road are horrible and I’m breathing those in on my walk to and from the office everyday. I’ve noticed my throat is dry a lot and my skin gets quite dry and itchy. Trying to prevent dust from covering everything in my room is a losing battle also. I’m diligent about cleaning the fan in my room to reduce the dust being blown about.

Normally you would be able to see this Church
from Fort Victoria

The harmattan was fairly mild this year from what I have been told. There was only a week where the dust clouds were so thick that you couldn’t see things at a short distance. It was really unfortunate that I visited both Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle during the dry season because under normal conditions, the buildings are visible from one another. As you can see from the pictures, the sky is really grey and the visibility is limited. I wish I had taken a picture of the dust clouds when it was really bad because it was remarkable to see. It is similar to fog in Canada except that it is dust. 

View of Cape Coast from Elmina Castle. You should
be able to see Cape Coast Castle from here but
because of the harmattan you can't

Now that the rains have started again, it is a welcome relief from the dry season. The power should be more consistent as there is more water flowing through the hydroelectric dams. The sky is more blue than it was during the dry season. Predicting the weather in Ghana is fairly easy (most days are the same), yet predicting rain is quite difficult. The days where the clouds look like it will rain never actually rain. 

I Spoke Too Soon.. Malaria Part 2

I blogged two weeks ago about my desire for a problem-free last month of placement. I discussed some of the health problems I have experienced including having malaria 6 weeks ago and falling in a gutter. Personally, I don’t recommend doing either however both seem to be a right of passage of being in Ghana. 

As I wrote the post, malaria was brewing again in my liver and the day after I posted, I started feeling horrible at work and left work early to go home and rest. Just like last time, I had recently returned from a week field trip (this time in Western Region), and I noticed that I was sleeping more than usual and chalked it up to being exhausted. Unlike last time, I listened to my body and didn’t wait three weeks before seeking treatment. I decided against going back to the doctor and chose to buy the medication and rest. I didn’t have the time or feel the desire to go see a doctor again and spend money when I could treat it myself. 

Yet again, I appeared to be the healthiest person with malaria as I wasn’t throwing up or having difficulty moving around. I was suffering from muscle pain, muscle weakness, general discomfort, a headache and stomach pains. It’s hard to describe how malaria ‘feels’ but having gone through it once, I recognized the discomfort and crabby attitude. I knew as soon as I sat down at my desk that Friday that something wasn’t right with my body.

Because I have wonderful friends, a friend went to the pharmacy for me and picked up the malaria treatment and brought it to my room when I got back from work. She spoke with the pharmacist about my symptoms and that I had malaria within the last 6 weeks. Last time the doctor prescribed Coartem but it didn’t work very well for me. When I told my co-workers that I had been prescribed Coartem they all told me that it wasn’t an effective medication and that the parasite has developed a resistance to it and to try a different medication. The Coartem made my symptoms worse and it took me well over a week to bounce back and feel mostly back to normal after completing the three days of medication. All things considered, I’m not sure why I was prescribed Coartem however it seems like everyone is given Coartem the first time they have malaria.

This time I took Lonart which was half the price of Coartem and worked amazingly well. I wasn’t prepared for the nausea which was pretty bad during the first two days of treatment however eating soda crackers and drinking lots of water seemed to help. By the last day of Lonart I was feeling much better and I was able to move around and eat normally. I decided to take the Monday off work and work from home to allow my body to heal a bit more as I was still feeling mentally fuzzy and simple tasks were taking me longer than usual to complete. Tuesday morning I was back at work and feeling much better.

The weirdest part of malaria for me is the emotional chaos that seems to follow taking the treatment. Both times I’ve experienced emotional breakdowns and I struggle to control my emotions and mood swings for about a week after I finish the treatment. Someone told me that this isn’t uncommon in the recovery process however I couldn’t find any resources online about what to expect after completing malaria treatment.

I should point out that I have been taking my anti-malarial medication as directed by my doctor since I arrived in Ghana. I decided that after two rounds of malaria, that it wasn’t worth continuing the anti-malaria medication for the last few weeks. It is true that the anti-malaria medication doesn’t guarantee that you won’t contract malaria but it was a sound investment.

I found this video on youtube about malaria. It provides a general overview of malaria and the lifecycle of the parasite. 

FUN FACT: Did you know that malaria was common in North America? Malaria has since been eradicated.

It is true that malaria isn’t something to mess about with and seeking prompt treatment is key to a successful recovery. Most Ghanaians (and indeed, most Africans), have developed a resistance to the parasite and many adults don’t take the malaria medication and instead treat it the same way we in North America treat the common cold (lots of rest and fluids). It seems to affect small children and the elderly more than the average healthy adult because they have weaker immune systems. If you present with any of the usual symptoms (fever, headache, muscle pain), doctors assume that it is malaria and will treat for malaria before exploring other possible causes for the symptoms. Prevention is important and sleeping under a mosquito net is the first line of prevention. Avoiding mosquito bites altogether is virtually impossible if you are someone who tends to get bitten at home. 

Staying healthy is not so easy.

Waist & Power

I decided for my post today to switch it up and add some video content instead of the usual text and pictures. I've been exceptionally busy lately but I will try and do a better post by the end of the week.

If you've ever spent even a short amount of time in Ghana, you should be familiar with some of the 'classic' songs that are played all the time. Waist & Power is no exception! I hear this song all the time and you can't help but sing along to the catchy chorus of the song after you have heard it a few times. I really love how the music in Ghana fits so perfectly with the Ghana attitude - not being in a hurry and being happy. It's also interesting to see how the music videos are the same or differ from our music videos.

Waist & Power by 4X4

The wonderful internet led me to discover an even better version of this song! A Chipmunks version! It is pretty good for a laugh. I also love the Chipmunk movies. I must say I was still surprised that someone had taken the time to turn this song into a Chipmunk version!

The Chipmunk version of Waist & Power

Another song by the same artist who sing Waist & Power is a song called Yesi Yesi which is also heard all the time. The artist, 4X4 is quite popular in Ghana and I hear their songs wherever I go in Ghana.

Yesi Yesi by 4X4

30 Days Left

It was odd to wake up this morning and realize that today was March 22nd which means 30 days remain of my field placement in Ghana. Looking back on when I first arrived in Ghana, I didn’t have any idea how much I would learn about myself, life and international development. I was also completely clueless about how to do everything from getting dinner to navigating Accra. There have been some pretty horrible lows and some incredible highs throughout this experience. On a personal level, I’ve learned how to cope in a foreign place without my friends and family (although I’ve made a new family here). I’ve mastered getting around on my own by tro tro and I know where I’m going in Accra now. I’m getting over my shyness and I will bargain for taxis to make sure I’m not getting “Obruni priced” (overcharged). I feel more independent than I ever have before and I know that I can function and establish a life in a foreign country. This gives me a sense of confidence I didn’t know I had.

I have also gained a greater appreciation for the comforts of home. Things like knowing that when I turn on a faucet, water will come out of it (cold and hot water), and that I can find a flushing toilet when I need it are small things I appreciate a lot more. Unreliable power and unreliable or slow internet make life all the more interesting (and at times extremely frustrating when you are trying to get something done). I will point out that even within Ghana, things at Legon are much better than elsewhere in Accra and indeed much of the country. I’ve learned that getting upset about such matters is not good and although sometimes it might be hard, laughing about it is always the best way to deal with it. Education is another thing that I am more appreciative of in Canada. So many kids can’t afford to go to school in Ghana and many of them sell water and other items on the road. Kids in Ghana (generally speaking) are required to buy a school uniform and pay school fees to attend school. It is not uncommon to meet children who have never gone to school which is really heartbreaking, especially when they tell you that their dream is to be a doctor, teacher, nurse etc.

Ghana hasn’t been all good though. ‘Ghana tummy’ as it is affectionately known has plagued me on and off this entire trip and at times it gets really painful. Thankfully my wonderful parents brought me some Pro-biotics and that seems to help. I have also contracted malaria (thankfully only once), and I have fallen in a gutter. These sorts of things are a badge of honour and make you feel like you’ve had the real Ghana experience. I’ve also broken electronics (laptop and cellphone) but was amazed at how easy it was to resolve these issues. Ghana does get really overwhelming sometimes but I try to focus on the good days and forget the not so good days.

As the end grows near, I can now appreciate the beauty of Ghana. It is hardly a secret that I truly can’t stand Accra because it is busy, noisy 24 hours a day, crowded, smelly etc. I feel more justified in my feelings when I travel outside and talk with other Ghanaians who echo my dislike for Accra! Living in Accra does have major perks like having access to a wide range of restaurants and it is really convenient to travel to many parts of Ghana from Accra. As much as I think I would love to live in other cities like Tamale, Cape Coast or Takoradi, I’m content with where I am. I have loved spending time in Tamale, Kumasi, Cape Coast - Elmina, and Takoradi where people are really friendly and kind - especially when you look lost. I really like that people take a moment to greet me when I’m walking around, it is such a small and simple gesture but it can make my day.  Ghana itself is naturally beautiful. The lush and green Volta Region is stunning, as is the savannah-like Northern Region. 

Veronika, me and Lisa at Nzulezu - village on stilts

I reflect on some of the crazy yet hilarious adventures I have had over the last 7 months. Some of the more memorable ones include the trip to Nzulezo where the driver was driving extremely dangerously. On the plus side, I made new friends (Lisa and Veronika) who were wonderful to have around. 

At the top of Mount Afadjato

Another entertaining trip was to Volta Region to visit the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary and climb Mount Afadjato - the highest peak in Ghana. Despite the crazy rainstorm that turned descending the mountain into a muddy water slide, we had a fantastic day and had another story to tell. 

Busia Beach

A more peaceful weekend was Western Region where Sarah and I went to Butre and Busia and got to visit a Fort and hang out on a beautiful beach. In hindsight, this was probably our most simple overnight trip, despite planning it in an hour on Friday morning. 

Kevin and I in Kokrobite

I have been really lucky to have had visitors over Christmas break. Having my boyfriend planning a trip to Ghana while writing exams and then getting on a plane within 36 hours of finishing his exam meant the world to me. What a fantastic Christmas present. I know he really enjoyed his time in Ghana.

With the parents at Mole

Vanesa, my Mom, me and Peter in Aburi

My parents also came for a visit and it was so nice to have my Mom and Dad around since I’ve never gone that long without seeing them before. It felt really strange being the ‘parent’ in that situation because they had no idea where they were going but I did. What a change from all previous family vacations where my parents were firmly in charge of the plans and the money. I was so excited to go to Mole National Park and we got to see elephants up close in their natural habitat which was an incredible moment. 

I’ve met some really cool people along the way as well, probably my most favourite people are Peter and his wife Vanessa who own and operate Peter’s Pizza in Aburi. I have eaten lunch several times at Peter’s and each time is yummier than the last! They are such wonderful people and I love talking with them and learning more about their life experiences and how they ended up in Aburi. I really hope I can visit them once more before I leave.

I hope that this last month doesn’t fly by but I know it will. It’s still rather strange to actually be planning to return home in 30 days and return to my regular life in Canada. It took me a long time to be comfortable and happy in all aspects of my life in Ghana but I’ve finally succeeded in doing so and I’m sad to see this experience come to an end. I've made incredible friends throughout this experience and I am going to miss them all terribly. Part of me wishes I could extend to continue working but I know that this isn’t possible. I must admit, I’m excited about seeing my family and my fellow classmates who I haven’t seen since September. I’m also REALLY excited for some homemade macaroni and cheese and tacos! I’ve promised myself to make more time to write on my blog once I return to Canada because I have lots of stories to tell but due to being busy at work, I haven’t had the time to dedicate to my blog as I would have liked. 

Here’s to hoping Ghana will be kind and there will be no catastrophes for the last month. 

(How hard can it be?)

Tamale Fire Festival

I was fortunate to have been in Northern Region during the first two weeks of December. Nothing struck me as out of the ordinary on December 5th. People were doing their usual things, wearing their usual clothing. Nothing would have prepared me for the spectacle that was awaiting me upon our return to Tamale.

Tamale December 5th

Bugum or the the fire festival takes place in December each year in the Northern Region of Ghana. According to the internet, it is celebrating the arrival of Noah’s Ark after the flood. The festival draws people from many ethnic groups and religions (both Christians and Muslims take part). It is the view of many Muslims that because the Ark landed at night, torches were lit to allow Noah and his people to tell if they had reached land. An opposing view is that a son of a great king was lost during the night so people lit torches to search for the missing prince at night. In short, it is an important night for people in the region, regardless of their faith.

Procession in Tamale

As we were driving back to Tamale in late afternoon, I noticed that in each village we passed, children were running around holding bundles of grass in the air while singing and yelling. I wondered if it was some Ghanaian version of Halloween because some of the children were wearing white face paint that gave them a skeletal appearance. The bundles of grass are prepared during the afternoon as the festival takes place after nightfall. Part of the festival includes offering some of the dinner prepared for that evening to their departed ancestors. Families will pray for prosperity and good health for the coming year.

Procession through the streets of Tamale

The main event of the festival is a procession through the streets once the torches are all lit. People are singing and drumming and dancing along the street. The youtube video I found (below), gives an excellent indication of the festival procession so please watch it. I am assuming this person was fortunate (and brave!) enough to walk through the streets. As we were driving through Tamale I was able to take a few pictures. I know the quality isn’t the greatest but it gives some idea of the festival. 

In Tamale the noise was incredible for a city that goes very quiet after nightfall. People were setting off fire crackers and other items that made huge ‘bang’ sounds. It was really pretty to see some fireworks being lit, despite the fact that they exploded too close to the ground for my comfort! I asked (rather jokingly) if alcohol was involved in getting the crowd riled up for the procession and other activities and I was told it absolutely was. It was really cool to see people of all ages celebrating their festival happily and peacefully. It was an adventure trying to get back to the hotel from the small market so we wouldn’t get stuck in the procession so our driver took back roads to get in front of the procession. Part of me wishes I had been gutsy enough to try and join in however I enjoyed watching the procession pass by my hotel.

The internet also tells me that part of the festival is for people to test their magical power and to pacify the gods. Several news articles about Bugum indicate that people sometimes die when they try to ‘test’ their magical powers by stabbing themselves however I didn’t see any of that going on.

It was amazing to see that many people walking
through the streets

Regardless, I was really fortunate to have been able to experience some of the awesomeness that is the Tamale fire festival.

Another Tale of Broken Electronics

Having a cellphone while in Ghana is very important to me. Really, it’s my lifeline. I use it to communicate to people at home and in Ghana in addition to using it for e-mails, internet, homework and work documents. 

You might remember me discussing my great used Blackberry purchase at a special place in Accra called Kwame Nkrumah Circle (locally known as Circle). In my first post I mentioned how overwhelming Circle was on the first day I was in Ghana - in hindsight, perhaps not the best choice to go to Circle while jetlagged and absolutely clueless but we managed. Circle is essentially a central transportation hub with a huge tro tro station (and at least 3 auxiliary stations that I have stumbled upon), STC and VIP buses have stations here, there is a Post Office and several markets. Circle is also a great place to buy used things like cellphones and bicycles. 

The purchase of my used BlackBerry Bold 9000 for what I thought was a pretty reasonable price was amazing. I couldn’t ask for more from a phone. It was pretty banged up when I bought it and it was quite remarkable that it worked perfectly despite its age. I will admit that it was very big and heavy and often got dropped but I tried to take care of it. I was hopeful that it would last the 8 months of my placement. Sadly, that was not meant to be, as it died forever on Sunday February 26. I couldn’t believe that it was dead dead even though it resetting itself constantly over the weekend. This was a bit of a problem because I had been working on an assignment for work on the phone and lost all the work. A reminder that relying so heavily on electronics is perhaps not the smartest thing (eventually I will learn this).

I had to do a great deal of soul searching about what kind of phone I would purchase for the remainder of my placement. I had two options: buy another used BlackBerry and run the risk of getting a garbage phone or buy a cheap, disposable phone to text and call without all the fancy extras. In the end, I decided the BlackBerry was the best option for me despite the fact that I will only be in Ghana for another 52 days. Could I have survived without the fancy phone? absolutely, but I didn’t want to.

So decision made and with my budget in mind, off I went with a friend to Circle Tuesday morning to once again buy a phone. I promised myself that this time I would shop around and not buy the first phone I saw like last time. I promised not to buy on impulse and make sure it was worth buying before handing over my Cedis. Ian and I hadn’t gone too far down the road before we saw a guy with nice looking BlackBerrys in his little glass case. We stopped to talk to Isaac and saw a BlackBerry in good condition that looked alright. Bargaining is like a sport and it is quite addictive. Within a few minutes we got him to cut the price from 200 to 150 and we quickly tried making a phone call and making sure all the buttons and camera worked.

I lost my desire to shop around and handed over the money and became the owner of my new BlackBerry. I didn’t realize until I got on the tro tro to come home that the buttons have what looks like Arabic characters in addition to the regular characters on the buttons! woops!! Never mind, I replaced an ancient Bold 9000 with a Tour 9630 2009 model.

So far, the Tour has been alright. It seems to be a cross between the Curve and the Bold. Having owned both models before, it seems to combine the features of the Bold in a smaller, lighter handset. So far the Tour is alright, it isn't my favourite model and I miss the bigger screen of the Bold but really, I can't complain.

My wonderful little purchase will only be mine until the day I leave as I’ve decided to return to Circle and sell it back to one of the boys on the street so that someone else can enjoy it. Right after buying it one of the other boys asked me if I was interested in selling it. I’ve got a better idea of how much I can get for it so we’ll see what happens when the time comes!